“A wealth of nature and history...”

Over seven hundred years ago, before he settled on Mount Minobu, Nichiren Shonin traveled the area teaching the Lotus Sutra. A woman with different beliefs to Nichiren Shonin, named Keicho, held a strong dislike for the teacher and together with her friend, Hoki, she plotted to kill him. One autumn’s day, the two women prepared some ohagi* laced with poison and took it to Nichiren Shonin’s hermitage, where he was overjoyed to see them. He sat down to eat with them when, from nowhere, a white dog appeared and began barking for the ohagi in Nichiren’s hand. Nichiren gave his ohagi to the white dog, who devoured it and died instantly. Shocked at what they had done, the women said, “From now on we must never do that kind of thing again. Please make us your disciples.” Nichiren gave them Buddhist names and made them his disciples.
In recogonition of the white dog who had appeared to take the place of Nichiren Shonin, a tomb was prepared in the grounds of Jotaku-ji temple. To mark the grave, Nuchiren took his walking stick, made from the wood of the gingko tree, and planted it upside down in the ground. The cane put down roots and became a tree which grew taller and taller. If you go to Jotaku-ji temple today, the tree still stands in recognition of the white dog who saved Nichiren Shonin.”
The story of “The upside-down gingko tree at Jotaku-ji” is just one that surrounds Minobu’s most famous former inhabitant and founder of the Nichiren sect of Buddhism, Nichiren Shonin. Nichiren first came to Minobu in 1274, when he founded the Kuonji Temple on the slopes of Mount Minobu. He taught there for nine years, without once setting foot off the mountain, until he was forced by illness to seek treatment and left for hitachi-no-kuni (present day Ibaraki-ken). However, he died before he could reach his destination and his remains were carried back to Mount Minobu where they could be reunited with his spirit. Nowadays, Kuonji Temple has become the destination point for a mixture of travellers: Nichiren followers seeking to deepen their understanding of his teachings; curious tourists seeking ‘old Japan’ and traditional architecture; and those who simply appreciate the area for its natural beauty, air of solemnity and serenity.

Any visitor to Kuonji will first need to formally enter Mount Minobu by passing through the So-mon gate. Once through, to the left is a stone which apparently Nichiren Shonin himself sat on over seven hundred years ago. The Temple is reached slightly further on by passing through the grand San-Mon gate and climbing the 287 stone steps which ascend the 104 metres to the Main Hall. This final stage on the route to Kuonji leads you up through a forest of Japanese cedars and is known as bodaitei , “steps towards enlightenment”. In the basement of the Main Hall is an exhibition of precious Buddhist artifacts; the Temple precints are home to a number of other lesser known, but still impressive, buildings. Given its importance, the temple is the site of many Buddhist festivals throughout the year, and the grounds are arguably at their most beautiful in the spring, when painted with the light pink of sadare-zakura (cherry blossoms).

Despite the central role of Kuonji in Minobu’s hostory, with a little exploration it is apparent that there is much more to this town than its famous temple, and you don’t have to stray too far from Kuonji to find out. A short walk from the temple grounds is the beginning of the Minobu ropeway, which climbs the 763 metres to the summit of Mount Minobu in approximately 7 minutes. Nichiren Shonin built Okunoin Temple on the summit of Mount Minobu in memory of his parents and the grand setting is fitting for a memorial. Visitors to Okunoin are rewarded with 360 degree panoramic views, taking in the townscape of Minobu, the Fujikawa river carving its way through the valley below, the nearby peak of Shichimanzen, Mount Fuji and the distant range of the Minami Alps. The most striking sight, though, is reserved for sunrise when the sun emerges from behind Mount Fuji and temporarily illuminates the summit-- a sight known as ‘Diamond Fuji’.

Another area for shopping enthusiasts is Shonin-dori, the common name for the shopping district outside of Minobu station. Famous for being a “Modern day historic city”, great care has been taken to provide this uniform, historically accurate visual scene. All of the shop buildings have traditionally tiled roofs, with the edges bearing the family crest of the architect. Perhpas the biggest step towards authenticity, and the biggest difference with any other street in Japan, is the sky. Shonin-dori is pleasantly devoid of any overhead electrical or telephone wires, all of which have been buried underground. Also, on weekends and public holidays, rickshaws are on hand to give traditional tours of the streets.

http://www.town.minobu.yamanashi.jp/

by Ben Morris