A Brief History of Wine-making in Katsunuma
Wine-making in Japan dates back to the Meiji period, or the 19th century. Although Japanese people probably encountered wine as early as the 16th century it was first produced domestically in Katsunuma. The then governor of Yamanashi, Shiro Fujimura, initiated the first wine-making, which lead to the establishment of the Dainihon Winery Company in Katsunuma in 1877.
Soon afterwards, two local men were sent by the company to France to study grape growing and wine-making skills. They returned in 1879 and had soon produced 27 kilolitres of wine. Although their employer disbanded a few years later, already the foundations were laid for wine-making in Katsunuma. Today, Katsunuma wines account for over a quarter of Japan’s domestic wine production.
Nowadays, Katsunuma is famed for its grapes and wines. However, long before it became the Bordeaux of Japan, Katsunuma already established itself as an important town on the Koshu Road (one of the five major roads in Japan and a major vein for trade and transport during the Edo period). Koshu is the historical name for Yamanashi prefecture and for anyone following the Koshu Road westwards out of Edo (modern-day Tokyo) Katsunuma was the next major town they would reach after Hachioji. Prior to this town had been involved in a number of industries, including silk production; it was during the Edo period, though, that the Koshu Grape, as the variety grown in Katsunuma has come to be known, developed into the town’s main product. As one of the major stages on the Koshu Road, the name “Katsunuma”, associated with the Koshu Grape, spread throughout the country.

Where did the grapes come from
The reals origins of the Koshu Grape are unknown, however a number of legends do exist. One of these is set in the year 718 and tells of the monk Gyoki, who was leading an ascetic life by the Nikkawa River. One day, Yakushi Nyorai (a Bodhisattva connected with medecine) appeared to Gyoki in a vision. In the Bodhisattva’s right hand was a bunch of grapes and his left hand an amulet. Gyoki was so inspired that he rushed to carve the vision in wood. He then enshrined the statue at Daizenji Temple and taught the people of Katsunuma how to grow grapes, which were believed to have medicinal properties.
The importance of wine and grapes to the people of Katsunuma is reflected in the town’s event calendar. Annual events include the famous “Grape Festival” held on the first Sunday in October, when people come from far and wide to sample the year’s crop and wines. In fact, people usually start coming to Katsunuma in large numbers from the end of July, when the grapes begin to ripen. Around 130 vineyards in Katsunuma allow you to wander among the vines and choose your own grapes. For real wine devotees there is also the annual “New Wine Festival” at which nine major wineries present their new vintage for the year.

Necessity and Invention
When the citizens of Katsunuma first began cultivating grapes they encountered a few problems. The Koshu Grape grows on a large vine, and Katsunuma’s climate encouraged the vines to grow even larger. This, coupled with trying to build traditional upright vineyards on a mountainside, lead to the development of the characteristic trellis system on which the Koshu Grape is grown. Rather than extending vertically from the ground, these structures spread across the fields, suspended horizontally at around head height. When seen from above during the peak of grape season (July-November), it seems as though great swathes of the town are covered in a rich, green blanket. If seen from below, at one of the 130 vineyards where grape-picking is possible in Katsunuma, it is as though you have an entered a secluded shelter where grapes dangle enticingly from the ceiling.
No visit to Katsunuma would be complete without a trip to Budo-no-Oka (literally, “Hill of Grapes”). Sitting appropriately atop a hill it overlooks Katsunuma and the rest of the Kofu Basin, and was established as a sanctuary for Katsunuma wine. Surrounded on all sides by vineyards, here you can peruse the various wines on sale, sample many of them in the cellars and have a relaxing lunch whilst taking in the view around you. If you are searching for that perfect bottle of wine, it may very well be sitting in the cellars waiting for you. If not, 22 of the 31 wineries in the town can also be toured.
Katsunuma is not solely a town for wine aficionados. However, its reputation has grown on the vines that characterize the area and has been cultivated by the townsfolk who cherish them. If you were to visit, it would be a shame not to pay homage to the fruits of their labours.